how to make gusset corners
9 months ago. This time around I made sure that there were plenty of surface covered with glue. The scrap pieces of leather prevented the holes becoming too big. Thanks, Can you explain how the gusset or box bottom above reduces the height/width of the bag, based on a 16″ by 19″ bag…I am just not getting it, can you give more details please…thanks. What ever method you chose it takes some time to dye a piece this big and you have to go over the same spot multiple times. The strap holders needs to line up with the holes in the top strap. Next time I think I will wait until the leather has dried before applying the contact cement. I was so happy to find your blog with the Box Bottom Tote Bag. You can make them in various sizes, depending on how big your bag is. Thanks, I had ordered a similar lock (which has a different link than the one in the Instructable probably based upon time) from Abbey Leather but it made no mention of having rivets included. One look at your pictures and I got it straight away – YOU ROCK! The strap holders are made from left overs from the straps. Did you do any finish to the flesh side on the internal compartments? size you want. The bottom line is that you should do whatever works for you and don't worry about whether it is the "correct" way or not. Make holes that fits the strap and glue it together with another piece of leather, stitch it and finish the edges. You can either make a The ends of the straps need to be cut to a point. They just sit proud of the surface. Share it with us! Talking about the dyeing another crucial step to get a crisp line is to burnish the edge of the edge. This piece gets discarded because, if I use this piece, I'll end up with a cracked gusset. My steel ruler is 1m long and therefore not long enough to cut the side of the gusset without having to move it. If you do need to add a little piece of material so I did not know exactly how long the finale piece should be. They have a 250ml bottle where you can attach a 50mm wide head. I also tried wetting a rag with the leather hardener and running it over the edge (this works best with a ultra smooth edge). The belt keepers are cut with a strap cutter and then skived down from 3,5 to 2,5mm. When I do this the stitching on the back side is not even. 17″ W x 15″ H x 2″ D (wide/tall/skinny, fits a large text book), 3″ corner = 6″ deep. Stitch sides and bottom together, pivoting at bottom corners… That happens when the cement becomes to thick. As with the dyeing it just makes things so much easier. I wouldn't use it if I had to skive a lot but for these few pieces it got the job done. When punching the holes make sure you are dead center or the edges will not line up when the strap is folded. Sand where the metal bar cover will be and apply contact cement to both pieces and glue together. I hope. Also you can trim the ends but you should wait a bit before you trim to the final length. With the corners rounded the edge can be burnished but only on the actual "flap part" as the sides will be burnished after the gusset have been sewn on. The edge is then burnished as normal but instead of having the leather hanging over the edge of the table it is now a few mm from the edge. There are some differences that I would like to highlight. way to go Joan! Use a old rag for this and spend some time buffing the leather. This has off course never happened to me as I am very careful and never make mistakes. Make holes for the buckles and snap hooks according to the pattern if you use the same size hardware as I do. Hit them with fine grit sandpaper and finish with a polishing and you will be able to see your own pretty face in them. I have some prequilted fabrics, mostly in holiday patterns, that were given to me. Its the same thing with the "best leather costume" The vader costume has some nice photos of the final product and it is a original idea but that's about it... but that is just my opinion :). Can someone please clear this up for me. Make sure that the partition board goes all the way out to the gusset. Regarding the awl you are right. This off course only makes sense if you use a diamond shaped awl. That being said you don't actually need them. the stitching line to cut out for the box corner or measure from the raw edge of the fabric? I marked a line around 7 mm from the edge and sanded it to help the cement get a better grip. Also but 3 grooves where they need to be bend. So, while you are only cutting one inch into your bag, when you sew a half inch from the New edge it makes your seam one and a half inches, and your corner ends up a perfect three inches.”, “you are absolutely right. I only wet the "triangles". I have just reached this point, so when I had the opportunity to make and sell a briefcase I jumped at it. I've got all of the leather dyed and cut and I was wondering what stitch spacing you used for the project? How do I finish off a large oval hole with another material? Using both a bone folder and your fingers you mould the corners, so that there is a edge all around the corner fold. If I left something out or if you have any questions about how to make the briefcase feel free to ask. I once had a professor who told me that if you include a picture in a report, it better have a caption. The beveling is easy as long as your tool is sharp. Thankyou so much for sharing this. Sure some of the line will be covered by the top straps but underneath the handle you will be able to see it. A friend of mine once told me that leather dye will make a HUGE mess if you were to spill it all over your table. The PDF files are 1:1 so you can print it and cut it if your wish. Visions of using up small pieces of novelty prints are darting through my head…see what you start! Remembering to add on the seam allowance, cut out your material so you Especially when applying the dye you want something that does not deform or have stray hairs going everywhere.

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