how to wire recessed lighting new construction
There are two basic types: “new-construction” and “remodel\" lighting.Use a new-construction option if you have access to the space above the ceiling, such as an attic. You really want to have your cutouts in the middle of your sheets. To locate the places where your new lights will go: Use a template or a circle scribe to mark the cutout for each light, and a drywall saw, slanted outward, to cut the openings. The cans are IC-rated (installation installed right up next to them) – however the jury’s still out on whether we’ll insulate. Wrap the two black wires together within the junction box (one from the light switch cable and the other from the recessed light can) and connect the tips using a wire nut. You mention avoiding screwing into the joist when attaching the drywall to the channel – it’s hard to tell in the picture but I would assume the channel is at least 3/4″ deep to allow for a countersunk screw without touching the drywall? http://www.phillipsmfg.com/products/mcif/channels.htm#RC1. Alan – perhaps the most useful comment ever left on this blog. Once the wires are securely connected, tuck the wires into the box and fasten the fixture. However, recently a new ultra thin fixture has become a popular option that's suitable for either home construction project. This will give a base to make accurate measurement for your can cutouts. http://www.lemurzone.com/rfg/index.php/2009/01/24/drywall-circle-cutter/ Hey. If we go with it and some kind of insulation would you imagine we could decouple the sound pretty effectively? New Construction Can Light Installation Instructions. Are your CFL’s the type that won’t degrade being upside down? If you’re doing a remodel where sheet rock is already covering the studs, you’ll need to use a remodel can. Acoustical caulk.is the final step. They are controlled by three switches. In new construction, recessed lighting is easy to install because the housing is mounted with nail-on flanges. ... the fixture to be retrofitted into the existing ceiling from the kitchen instead of installing the rough-in or new-construction style can/fixture from inside the attic. But no less than 12” out. Use a remodel option if you don’t have access to the space above. The Romex can be stripped back to the tension reliever, as shown in this picture: Tip: Leave about 16 inches of excess Romex in the ceiling to give you a little flexibility on exact can placement. As far as unfaced insulation… I don’t really have an incentive to keep the basement isolated from the rest of the house thermally – we’re on a single HVAC system and plan to use the basement as much as the rest of the house… How much additional sound protection do I get? Friction fit it into the existing joists.The RC will keep it from falling down while installing it. Step 1: Run a new circuit or extend an existing circuit. But, if the space above the ceiling is accessible, you should probably use new construction fixtures anyway. Cut a piece of coathanger wire, or something similar, that you can push up through each drilled hole, and that will stay in place. http://www.lemurzone.com/rfg/index.php/2008/08/31/drywall-screwblocks/ Once the tension reliever is in place, you can make the electrical connections. Thanks for your help!! Mounting a new can is really simple. Good question about the fixtures and insulations. Find out the most recent pictures of How To Wire Recessed Lighting New Construction here, so you can find the picture here simply. Installing new construction can lighting is very simple and straightforward. Recessed lighting installation begins with running a new electrical circuit from the electrical panel or tapping electricity off of an existing circuit.

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